Underfloor Heating FAQ’s
We’ve answered some of the questions we get asked most often. If you need any more help, please feel free to reach out.
Electric underfloor heating is best for smaller areas like bathrooms or kitchens, while wet underfloor heating is suited to larger areas and multiple zones.
Water UFH is more energy-efficient over time, but electric is quicker and cheaper to install. Find out more about the main differences between wet and electric UFH on our blogs.
Yes, both types can be zoned and controlled using a thermostat. A thermostat can control the system measuring air and floor temperature. To control rooms independently, each room would need a separate thermostat, improving energy efficiency and comfort.
Yes and no.
Underfloor heating can be used as a primary heat source on all floors removing the requirement for radiators. A common practice is to install UFH on the ground floor and have radiators in the remaining areas.
UFH can be installed for comfort benefits and used alongside radiators to heat your home. This is common in kitchens and bathrooms to heat tiles below your feet.
Yes, UFH can be installed over existing floors using varying methods.
Electric UFH is always placed on an existing solid floor. This can be concrete or floorboards.
Water underfloor heating can be retrofitted using a low-profile system. Overlay boards hold pipes, raising the floor level by around 20mm.
Underfloor heating can be completed by a competent DIYer.
Electric underfloor heating requires less preparation and can be laid using the installation manual within the box. We recommend using an electrician to connect the thermostat. Find out more about electric UFH installation.
Water underfloor heating requires more preparation and components. Floor preparation, laying pipes, and other simple plumbing can be handled by most.
We recommend that a qualified plumber connect the manifold to the heating system. Additionally, a qualified electrician should install controls. Ensure you understand the process before starting your installation.
Installation depends on the system type, area and the installer. Electric UFH can be installed in a few hours or a few days. Water-based systems can take several days or more, especially if screed is involved.
For most installations, a dedicated UFH pump is required. This ensures warm water circulates through the entire system. Some boilers and heat pumps already have a circulation pump built in.
Underfloor heating works well with all heat sources.
UFH is the perfect partner for low-temperature heat sources like ground and air source heat pumps. Underfloor heating operates between 35-50°C, meaning the heated water can flow directly through the system.
Oil and gas boilers often have a flow temperature of 70°C. In this instance, a blending valve reduces the flow temperature to the desired 35-55°C.
Yes, Insulation is required beneath underfloor heating to prevent downward heat loss. Having better insulation will improve energy efficiency and reduce running costs. Insulation requirements will vary across system types.
- Electric UFH needs between 6 – 10 mm below the mat to stop downward heat loss.
- 100 mm is a typical thickness when installing pipes in a screed.
- We recommend improving the insulation between joists if you have a suspended floor, rigid insulation or wool.
- XPS Overlay panels will provide a level of installation when installed on an existing floor.
UFH systems are typically controlled by thermostats. The amount of control will vary depending on the thermostat that you buy. Dial thermostats, programable thermostats, and smart thermostats are available for all requirements. Some modern thermostats will also allow control through an app to allow adjustments anywhere.
Yes, UFH is the perfect partner for renewable energy sources. Solar or wind energy can provide a primary power source for electric underfloor heating. Water-based UFH is also efficient when combined with air & ground-source heat pumps. The lower temperature heat is fed straight through the system.
Underfloor heating works well with most floor coverings.
- Tile and stone are natural conductors which facilitate quick and efficient heat transfer. Underfloor heating ensures the surface temperature is kept warm over cold winter months.
- Engineered wood and laminate are also good conductors of heat and are more resistant to temperature changes than natural wood. These floor coverings typically have a maximum temperature of 27°C, which can be monitored using a floor probe. Keep the thickness below 18mm to avoid reducing heat transfer.
- Soft floor coverings such as LVT and carpet are also a good partner for underfloor heating. An intermediate layer of self-levelling screed or similar is recommended to protect the pipe or mats from damage.
- The only flooring to avoid is solid wood flooring and thick carpets. Solid wood flooring has a higher moisture content, making it prone to warping when heated. A thick carpet traps the heat below, limiting the heat distribution into the room.
- Ensure your flooring is suitable for underfloor heating, this information will be displayed in the product description. If you are unsure, contact your flooring supplier.
Yes, wet underfloor heating can be installed between joists or on top.
Installing between joists requires floorboards to be lifted, however, this has the advantage of not raising the current floor level. This can be done by installing spreader plates, in joist panels or a dry screed system. Installing on top of floorboards requires less preparation but will increase the floor height in a room.
UFH can raise floor height, but the extent depends on the system.
- Electric underfloor heating will raise the floor level by around 20mm
- Insulation boards – minimum 6mm
- Mat or cable – 1-2 mm
- Self-levelling/chipboard – 5-10mm
- Wet underfloor heating can vary in height increase, ranging from 0 – 100 mm.
- Between joist systems result in no height increase as the system is fitted below the floor level.
- Screed systems typically vary between 30-100mm depending on installation.
- An overlay system will increase floor height by 20mm minimum. An extra intermediate layer of around 5-10 mm may be required.
Insulation in your home is important for all heating systems.
Without adequate insulation, your system will work harder to achieve the desired temperature, leading to greater heating costs. Improving insulation around the home will improve energy efficiency, reduce heating costs and improve comfort.
Yes, an underfloor heating thermostat controls the temperature of each zone. Rooms can be combined to work off a single thermostat, but the reading will be where the stat is positioned.
A probe measures the UFH’s surface temperature. It is placed in the screed or between the UFH system and the floor covering. The probe connects back to the thermostat behind the wall.
This would only be a problem when using floor coverings with a higher temperature limit, such as laminate or LVT.
Yes, underfloor heating can increase your home’s resale value. It is considered a desirable feature offering enhanced comfort and energy efficiency. Underfloor heating can be a strong selling point but will depend on the system installed and the quality of controls.
Most underfloor heating systems typically last between 25 to 50 years.
- Electric systems tend to last around 20 to 30 years.
- Wet systems can last upwards of 25 to 50 years or more.
The system controls, such as thermostats, usually last around 5 years, and components like pumps or boilers may require maintenance or replacement sooner. Proper installation and maintenance will help your system reach or exceed its expected lifespan.